1 KROY wool processing technology KROY wool processing technology can be divided into three types: top processing, fabric processing and loose hair treatment. At present, 8 companies in China have KROY top processing lines, and KROY top processing lines can produce different types of anti-shrinking strips, semi-anti-shrinking tops and mercerized tops. Countries with developed post-finishing technologies such as the United Kingdom, Italy, Japan and other countries have applied KROY fabric finishing technology to worsted fabrics, while domestic KROY cloth processing machines currently only have 2 sets. After the fabrics have been processed by KROY finishing technology, they are obtained. Permanent anti-shrinkage, softness, anti-pilling and other functions, dimensional stability and excellent performance, can also deepen the effect, reduce the amount of dyes, reduce costs, and make the product reach the touch that cannot be replaced by other processes and additives. Gloss and style. The form of loose wool is mainly designed for anti-dry felt of wool-filled products, and is also common in European, American and Japanese applications.
2 Product design 2.1 Raw material selection Since this kind of product is a piece dyeing product, there is no special requirement for the fineness of wool, as long as the minimum number of fibers of the single yarn cross section can be met, but the requirements for wool, grass clippings and flakes are strict. Control, to avoid causing a large number of appearance defects of the grey fabric to affect the quality of the finished product. Therefore, the main indexes of wool selected are: average fineness 19.4mm, fineness dispersion of 20.6%, average length of 81.53 mm, length dispersion of 31.22%, short-haired rate of 1.64%, hairiness of 0.11 grains/g, grass clippings of 0.21/g, The flakes were 0.1/m, the moisture regain was 15.8%, and the oil content was 0.7%.
2.2 Yarn design One of the biggest characteristics of the Japanese worsted fabric market is that the yarn count is generally not high. The conventional gowns and suit fabrics are generally 17.2 tex /2, but the requirements for the surface and gloss of the products are very strict. Taking into account the high added value of the product, the fineness of the yarn of this kind of product should be slightly thinner than that of the traditional product, and the number of fiber cross-section of the yarn should be 2 to 3 higher than that of the whole-wool yarn, so that the yarn is dry. The CV value is reduced, the coarse detail in the yarn is reduced and the production and quality requirements are met. The actual spinning count is 15.2 tex /2, which is calculated according to the empirical formula recommended by the International Wool Secretariat.
The æ» coefficient is one of the important parameters of product design. When the yarn twist coefficient is large, the yarn structure is tight, the rigidity is large, and the fabric is relatively cool. Considering that the product requirements for development are smooth, stiff and wrinkle-resistant, the coefficient of strand twist should be 10% to 15% larger than that of normal hair products, so that the design style of the product can be reflected and it can be perfectly combined with the KROY finishing process. Combined, but the single yarn twist factor should be reduced by 5% to 10% compared to the normal hair normal product, forming a so-called "inner loose outer" similar strong twist yarn style yarn. The yarn twisting direction can be designed according to the conventional wool fabric direction, the single yarn twist direction is Zæ», and the strand twist direction is Sæ».
2.3 Fabric organization In order to reduce the development cost, improve the development efficiency, and form a new product series, generally choose 3 to 5 different tissues in the selection of fabric structure, use the same yarn to concentrate production, and form 3 to 5 through tissue transformation. A variety of colors. Considering that the product is mainly used for dresses and suits, it should be selected such as 2 / 2 twill, 1 / 3 broken twill and 2 / 2 square equal organization, the number of recycled warp yarns of these tissues is 4, and 8 sets of healds can be used for weaving.
2.4 Fabric tightness and weft ratio The tightness and weft ratio have a great influence on the performance, style and body of the fabric, and the two must be considered together. Under the condition of the same texture and tightness of the fabric, the larger the weft ratio is, the tighter the fabric is, the feel is stiffer, and the fabric is softer. Under the same conditions of fabric and weft ratio, the tighter the fabric, the more the fabric Close, and vice versa. Considering the factors such as product use, raw material selection, yarn specifications, etc., the tightness can be appropriately increased by 2% to 5% compared with the conventionally organized whole-wool fabric, but the latitude ratio should not be too large to ensure that the product is not Not bad.
2.5 The test of the width of the machine shows that the product after KROY finishing is larger than the product without KROY. If the width of the machine is referenced to the conventional product, the width of the door before the wet finishing is too small. Increase the tension to pull the door Frame to the design door width, which will obviously affect the latitudinal shrinkage rate and steaming shrinkage rate of the product, which will affect the dimensional stability of the product. Therefore, the width of the upper machine must be increased by 10 compared with similar products. ~ 20 cm.
3 Finishing points 3.1 Finishing process Singeing → Single cooking → Washing → Double boiling → Water absorption → Drying → Chlorination treatment (KROY treatment) → Descaling → Sewing bag → Dyeing double boiling → Water absorption → Drying → Checking → Mature → Brushing → Shearing → Steaming → Blackening → Can Steaming → Pressing → Finished Product.
3.2 Key Process Technical Points Since the product is a piece dyed product, the fabric used for KROY processing must be clean, free from grease, and not impregnated with stabilizers, lubricants and other additives. Therefore, the fabric is pretreated (washed, boiled, etc.) ), completely remove the grease on the surface of the fabric, the additives and stains added in the previous process, which is the key to the degree of chlorination of the wool fabric; before the dyeing, the KROY chlorination treatment degrades the lipid structure on the surface of the wool fiber. The fabric is hydrophilic to enhance the absorption of the dye; after dyeing, it is blackened on the KROY wool fabric processor, and the blackening finishing process is arranged after steaming or steaming, so that neither the normal production process nor the normal production process can be changed. Guarantee the quality of the finished product.
3.2.1 KROY finishing mechanism The chlorination processing process includes the following steps: acid chlorination → washing → anti-chlorination treatment → washing. The chlorine source of acid chlorination is preferably chlorine gas, but considering the environmental protection requirements of the city, it is changed to sodium hypochlorite and sulfuric acid, and chlorine gas is supplied by chemical reaction NaClO + H2SO4 → Na 2 SO4 + Cl2 ↑ + H2O; the oxidation of sodium hypochlorite solution depends on The pH, chlorine, hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions are in equilibrium at a given pH. For example, a diluted solution of sodium hypochlorite mainly includes hypochlorite ion ClO- at a pH of 8.5 or higher, and is mainly decomposed hypochlorous acid HClO at a pH of 4.5, and a free chlorine gas at a pH of 2. It accounts for about 70% of the total active chlorine. There are two main chemical reactions in the chlorination process: 1) chlorination of disulfide bonds to form acidic groups; 2) cleavage of peptide bonds, mainly in the epidermal layer, forming hydroxyl groups and amine groups.
After chlorination, the swelling and wetting properties of the fiber are significantly improved, so that the desired dye absorption rate and dye uptake rate are obtained. The fiber is negative and has more activity. Acidic chlorination can also make the fabric shrink resistant. Performance, good gloss and pilling resistance.
3.2.2 Chlorinated fabrics During the treatment, the pH of the first tank should be controlled within 1.8-2.2. If the pH is too small, the chlorine content in the water will increase, and the acidity will lead to a strong decrease in the fabric; pH value If it is too large, the content of sodium hypochlorite in the water will increase, and the uniformity of the chlorination treatment will be affected. Therefore, in the production process, the accuracy of sodium hypochlorite and sulfuric acid concentration must be ensured first, and the flow rate of water, sodium hypochlorite and sulfuric acid should be controlled to ensure the stability of pH. In addition, if the vehicle speed is too fast, the chlorination will be uneven. If the vehicle speed is too slow, the chlorination will be insufficient. At the same time, the treatment effect is too strong, which will cause damage to the fabric itself. In general, the speed is 8m/min.
3.2.3 Descaling treatment After chlorination treatment by KROY equipment, the cloth is placed in the washing machine for dephosphorization treatment. The water temperature is 42 °C, the bath ratio is 1:30, and the pH value is adjusted with NaHCO3. The pH value is controlled at 8.5 to 9 If the pH value is too small, the dephosphorization is not enough to dye the color easily; the pH value is too large, which will seriously damage the fiber and cause the fabric to decrease strongly. After dephosphorization treatment, it must be rinsed again, then softened at a water temperature of 20 ~ 25 °C, adjusted with pH with acetic acid, added with softener, and run for 20 min.
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